sensible house
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Seattle - Construction - Electrical
There isn't much options with electrical work: almost everything that goes in the house is dictated by code.  Most of the electrical code is all sensible, safety related stuff, but code also dictates how many outlets and how much lighting.  Its probably all well intentioned, but when your building a house designed to use very little energy, you start wondering why you needed outlet on every wall, no more than twelve feet apart and all over the kitchen (our favorite rule was than there has to be an outlet within 30"(?) of the kitchen sink.  This of course is so you have the opportunity to dump various electrical appliances into the kitchen sink to regularly test the GFI breaker..only kidding).  What it seems like is that the electrical code is dictating the suburban lifestyle that we're rebelling against.  Having lived our entire lives in houses that were built before outlet mania, all we want is two outlets at our bathroom vanity and the ability to run the toaster and microwave at the same time.  Its certainly nice to have plenty of outlets, but code forced us to put outlets where we don't think they'll ever get used (which made us check out current house, which is the first "modern" one we've every lived in (re-wired in 1994), and in fact there were outlets all over the place we never even noticed before.  Part of the problem is society's expectations: one hundred years ago no one had electric, now we can't walk down a hallway, up a stairs or fetch a coat in the dark.  The humorous irony in our situation is that there are two bright street lights outside our house that make it bright enough to walk around almost everywhere in the house without any lights on - I tried it just after the sheetrock went on.

All this leads to the central problem, which is that all the electrical system is buried behind sheetrock and so difficult, expensive and messy to update.  Even worse, wires run through ceilings and walls everywhere in whatever route was convenient, so if you do go to update something you have to be super careful about drilling through anything for fear there are wires on the outer side that you can't see (unless, of course, you cut big chunks of sheetrock out, but that's not how its typically done).  Electrical systems are designed specially as overkill because they know you won't go back and update it, so they try to give you everything you ever possibly want.  We think this is a really bad idea.  If the system were only easily adaptable (for example but putting the wiring all in chases that can be easily accessed (like by unscrewing or unsnapping), we could add or move both outlets and lights as our (or other occupants needs changed over the years).  Office buildings already often use an adaptable system, because offices get remodeled very frequently, but that system is a surface mount that is not the most attractive in the world (eg see www.wiremold.com). Of course even if we did install an adaptable system, code would still require us to have lights and switches everywhere. 

The one big "green" thing we did was run a wire (12-3, so it can carry 20 amps at 240V, or about 4kw)  from the attic to the power panel so that when the cost of PV comes down (or we decide we can afford it anyhow), we can install PV panels on the roof without having to tear out a lot of sheetrock.

Lighting - ambient .vs. task lighting
Ambient lighting is the amount of light necessary to be able to get around the room, to be able to see the other occupants clearly, and do "big picture" tasks (like straightening out my pile of magazines!).  Task lighting is for close up work: things like writing, reading, or sewing.  In most homes, no distinction is made and we put 100 watt bulbs everywhere in case we want to plop down and read.  The problem with a system that isn't adaptable is that the only way to retrofit task lighting it to plug in a desk or table lamp, which generally works well, except when no plug is convenient (in spite of the code requirements!)

Adaptable system for low voltage
While code dictates just about everything for power, it doesn't say much (or anything) about telephone, cable and computer networking, so here we could create chases behind the baseboard and around door casing that would allow future access with just some unscrewing or removing nails.  Ideally we'd like them all to be screwed in, but the obvious path for some wires is under clear finish fir trim that we don't think would look too good with screw head in it.  The baseboard is painted pine, so we will paint the screw heads also and no one will probably notice, except all our architect and builder friends!

Wires run everywhere (far left).  Chases behind baseboard and door casing for low voltage (center and right) allows for moving outlets and future upgrading.  The bottom nailing strip for the baseboard hasn't been installed yet in these pictures.